Nova Scotia, Canada is the destination to be in any season, especially in autumn. It’s this time of year when leaves on trees are blanketed in an array of colours, cool air makes for perfect hiking conditions, and restaurants are infused with harvest-inspired meals. There are endless locations to explore and take in the stunning fall foliage around the province, and a place we are particularly excited to share about in this blog is Western Cape Breton Island.
Cape Breton isn’t just a scenic wonder to plan for. Photos of magnificent views will draw you in, but it’s the delicious food, culture, music, adventure, and world-renowned hospitality, that will charm you beyond measure. You may come here feeling like a tourist, but before you leave you’ll see that folks have a tendency of making you feel right at home! How do we know all of this? We’re locals! Having spent many days exploring the Island, we know firsthand that it is a special place to be. Our favourite season here is fall so each October we try not to stray far from our home and explore it as much as possible. Fall of 2022 we went on a trip around Western Cape Breton (and a bit of the north), hoping to visit some “new to us” or “lesser known” spots for food and experience some hidden gem locations along the way.
Mabou, Cape Breton Island
Why should you add Western Cape Breton to your travel itinerary?
See, when travelers come to the Island, they often have the ultimate goal of experiencing the famous Cabot Trail, and something we always LOVE to suggest is that they should also plan to experience the drive along the western coast of the Island (Ceilidh Trail / Route 19) on their way to or from the Cabot Trail too! This area is literally called “Canada’s Musical Coast” for the rich musical history and culture that lives here. Along this coastline are small towns with each their own unique accommodations, restaurants, musical events, scenic lookoffs, and friendly hospitality to offer. It is a destination must-visit in itself and trust us, you won’t leave anywhere hungry - your bellies, cameras, and hearts will be full!
How to get to Western Cape Breton:
When you arrive on Cape Breton, go left after the causeway at the Port Hastings rotary towards Route 19 (also known as the Ceilidh Trail)
The map below is the route (in pink) we took for this trip, traveling along Route 19 for the first few days before connecting onto the Cabot Trail in Margaree. We did make a detour (in dark blue) to Hunter’s Mountain on one of the days to experience an ATV Tour.
Map of our route along Western Cape Breton
We spent one week - 7 days, 6 nights - exploring Western Cape Breton (and a bit of the north). Here is what we got up to!
Day 1 & 2 : Port Hood & Mabou
Where we stayed: Colindale Beach Villas
Where we ate: Admiral Lounge and Cafe, Sandeannie’s Bakery and Tea Room, Clove Hitch Bar and Bistro, Brook Village Grocery, Beaton’s Delight Espresso, Galloping Cows Fine Foods
Where we explored: Celtic Shores Coastal Trail, Port Hood’s Boardwalk Beach, Town of Mabou
Beginning our travels from the Canso Causeway we took the Ceilidh Trail along the coast to Port Hood. We will never get tired of this drive and the water views you have along the way. Arriving in Port Hood we went for a stroll along Boardwalk Beach - did you know this town is known as the “Beach Capital of Cape Breton”? It has five fantastic beaches! After our walk, we had dinner at the Admiral Lounge. A favourite for locals and travelers, this family-owned restaurant offers a relaxed dining experience with fresh homestyle comfort food. We ordered their fish & chips and admiral burger (both delicious) but the Irish nachos stole the show for us!
The Admiral Lounge and Cafe / Port Hood Boardwalk Beach
5 minutes from the town of Port Hood we checked into our first oasis of the trip - Colindale Beach Villas. These stunning vacation homes are located on a breathtaking 50-acre property and are the perfect mix of luxury and connecting with nature. It’s not often you have your own private beach, trail system, and ocean view to yourself when traveling. The sunsets here were incredible. I recall David loving it so much that he wished he could replicate one of the villas for our own home! Staying here for two nights, we filled our plates with local adventures and food in the area.
Colindale Beach Villas, Port Hood
Breakfast the next morning was at Sandeannie’s Bakery and Tea Room. Known for its all-day breakfasts, fresh baking, and friendly staff, it’s the perfect spot to start a cool fall day. We went with their classic breakfast and fish cakes eggs benedict.. Yes, you read that right, fish cakes instead of an english muffin! All breakfasts are served with something they call a “skirlie” which looks like a dollop of stuffing but is really a traditional Scottish oatmeal side dish made with oats, butter, salt, and pepper. Different and delicious!
Sandeannie’s Bakery and Tea Room, Port Hood
To work off our breakfast and see fall colours, we walked parts of the Chestico Trail section of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail. In the afternoon we visited Galloping Cows Fine Foods to purchase incredible locally-made jams and jellies - check out their website to see everything they have to offer! Followed by the scenic drive into Mabou for caffeine treats at Beaton’s Delight Espresso. We gobbled up “mini cinnies” (mini versions of Mary Janet / Tunes and Wooden Spoons famous cinnamon rolls) and took our drinks down to the water to view the reflective autumn leaves and soak in the beautiful day.
Galloping Cows Fine Foods, Beaton’s Delight, Celtic Shores Coastal Trail, Mabou
Next, we visited one of our favourite spots in Western Cape Breton, Brook Village Grocery. This rural general store located in Brook Village is filled with charm and carries a bit of everything. Lots of local products mixed in with specialty imported products, not to mention an assortment of cheeses and a drool-worthy grilled cheese menu!
Brook Village Grocery
Dinner that night was at Clove Hitch Bar & Bistro where we watched the sun set over the horizon and indulged in their bistro club, seafood chowder, and shrimp tacos. We’ve been to this spot before and it is also a great location for live music!
The Clove Hitch Bar and Bistro, Port Hood
Day 3 & 4: Inverness, Margaree
Where we stayed: Inverness Beach Village
Where we ate: Coal Miner’s Cafe, The Annex Restaurant
Where we explored: Side-by-side tour to Cape Clear with TNT Outdoor Adventures, Inverness Beach Boardwalk, Inverness Shean Trail, Beinn Bhiorach (Steep Mt) in the Cape Mabou Highlands
The next leg of our trip had us traveling the Ceilidh Trail from Port Hood to Inverness (about a 30-minute scenic drive). Along the way, we couldn’t help but stop to admire the picturesque Glenora Distillery. The leaves here were so vibrant! Arriving in Inverness we fuelled up for a day of activity at the Coal Miner’s Cafe - another “local’s know” spot that is opened year round and has great pub-style food including a hearty breakfast menu.
Glenora Distillery (left) Coal Miner’s Cafe (right)
From The Coal Miner’s Cafe, we took a stroll along the Inverness Beach Boardwalk, followed by traveling to Sight Point to hike the Cape Mabou Hiking Trails. This area has over 30km of different trails to explore and we felt like we had it all to ourselves, not seeing a single other person while on our hike. With nothing but mountain-to-ocean views, we challenged ourselves with a climb up Beinn Bhiorach (Steep Mt) for a sunny fall view over the mountains. This hike took us about 3 hours to do.
Inverness Beach Boardwalk and Cape Mabou Highlands Hiking Trails
Checking into our home for two nights, the cozy cottages at Inverness Beach Village were a delight to stay in. Located along the coast, right above the sandy shores of Inverness Beach, each cottage has everything you need to feel right at home, and an ocean view to make you remember “oh my gosh, I'm not at home, I’m in Cape Breton about to witness an incredible sunset”! We loved that the property had its own private access to the beach too.
Inverness Beach Village cottages
When it was time for dinner there was no question that The Annex was where we’d be going. This new restaurant opened in 2021 and we had been eagerly waiting to get in to try it since. Highlighting seasonally inspired dishes and incorporating local ingredients and products into their recipes, the menu can frequently change depending on the season and what is fresh. We went with the mussels to share, a pan-fried arctic char dish for myself, and the cavatelli braised beef ragu for David. The food was so wonderful that we actually ate here two nights in a row! Pair the evenings with local beverages and live music and it was definitely a foodie highlight of our fall travels.
The Annex Restaurant, Inverness
Day four of the trip was a big adventure day because we booked an ATV tour! Rising early we witnessed a gorgeous sunrise over our cottage before making our way to Hunters Mountain. TNT Outdoor Adventures is a guided trail tour company that offers experiences all year long with top-of-the-line side-by-sides and snowmobiles. Located right on the Cabot Trail, this husband and wife duo (Turk & Cathy) take travelers out in nature to experience the remote and scenic beauty of the Cape Breton Highlands' significant trail network. Our destination - Cape Clear! A jaw-dropping lookoff, this location is not easy to get to and we recommend booking a tour experience like this to get there. We traveled in a side-by-side with Turk and Cathy (but you can also drive your own), chatting along the way, stopping to learn some history of the area, and when we got to the hidden gem of Cape Clear we took photos galore. They then pulled out snacks and a lunch for us to enjoy before making the trip back. To top the tour off Turk helped us dust off our clothes from the trails and we enjoyed some more snacks and chats with them back at their headquarters by the warmth of a wood stove. We truly had the absolute best day and loved chasing fall colours in such an exciting way.
TNT Outdoor Adventures, Cape Clear
The next morning we packed up the car, picked up our dogs, and headed to our next destination. Here is an autumn view of the Deepdale Trestle Bridge on the Inverness Shean Trail that we witnessed before leaving town.
Deepdale Testle Bridge on the Inverness Shean Trail, Celtic Shores Coastal Trail
Day 5, 6, & 7: Cheticamp to Dingwall
Where we stayed: The Markland Coastal Beach Cottages
Where we ate: Marguerite Boutique, Harbour Restaurant & Bar, The Markland, Morrison’s Restaurant
Where we explored: Trails in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park like the Acadian Trail, Mica Hill Trail, and Lone Shieling Trail
On the last leg of our Colours & Culinary Tour around Cape Breton Island, we made the scenic drive from Inverness to Cheticamp, then Cheticamp to Dingwall. Our first stop was Marguerite Boutique et Provisions. This cute cafe and shop showcase products from local artisans has fine foods for sale, coffee, and environmentally sustainable products. It’s an ode to Cheticamp general stores of old with a whimsical modern twist. We loved browsing the artwork before settling down in their sitting area to enjoy our delicious lattes.
Marguerite Boutique et Provisions, Cheticamp
Cheticamp is located at the doorstep of the National Park, offering many trails to hike nearby. We decided to revisit an old favourite of ours, The Acadian Trail, for a remarkable fall foliage view. We hiked to this lookout that showcases the roadway leading to the iconic Grand Falaise rock face. It’s views like this that make us speechless. The mountains, the ocean, and the open sky above, all painted in the most amazing vibrant colours. It’s visually pleasing to see in photographs but there’s also an energy to views like this that you have to experience firsthand for yourself.
The Acadian Trail, Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Cheticamp
Hiking up an appetite, we enjoyed an early dinner in town at Harbour Restaurant & Bar, savouring Acadian dishes like Cheticamp crab dip, seafood chowder, and Acadian-style cod. The food was amazing and the large restaurant windows gave us a brilliant view overlooking the Cheticamp Harbour with boats and an Acadian flag-painted lighthouse in sight too.
Harbour Restaurant and Bar, Cheticamp
From Cheticamp, we traveled the winding Cabot Trail up and around the coast to Dingwall. Truly just driving in Cape Breton is an event in itself, look at those views!
Driving the Cabot Trail
The Markland Coastal Beach Cottages was our home base for the last part of our trip. Here we stayed in a gorgeous oceanfront cottage that was dog friendly, clean, featured a full kitchen, and was steps away from their own private beach. The Markland also has a fabulous continental breakfast with lots of fresh homemade baked goods including scones, muffins, bagels, and granola (obsessed with their homemade granola). Their onsite restaurant and dinner service is dreamy too. Having dinner here is a must! We enjoyed their delicious seafood pasta and steak dinner to the sound of live music playing in the lounge and a view of the ocean. As the evening got darker candles were lit at each table and it was truly a very romantic dining experience. Even if you’re not staying at the Markland, call ahead and see if they are accepting dinner reservations for non-guests.
The Markland Resort Coastal Beach Cottages
Adventures while staying in Dingwall consisted of two different hikes in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park - Mica HillTrail to see glittering mica against a vast mountain backdrop, and the Lone Shieling Trail to see 400-year-old sugar maple trees towering above us and a replica of a Scottish crofters hut. Both hikes are fantastic spots to see fall colours.
Mica Hill Trail and Lone Shieling Trail, Cape Breton Highlands National Park
Lastly, to finish the trip we had to make a visit to Morrison’s Restaurant. This family-owned business serves home-style meals and is perfectly located on the Cabot Trail in Cape North. The recently renovated 100-year-old building is full of character, and the staff here are very friendly. We split their Aspy Burger and Buttermilk Chicken Burger.. Warning: that chicken burger is the best we have ever had and “wow’s” us every time! Indescribably good.
Morrison’s Restaurant, Cabot Trail
The natural beauty of Cape Breton Island in autumn is undeniable. We hope this blog inspires you to visit the West Coast of the Island someday, stopping to savour homestyle cooking, unique shops, breathtaking views, friendly hospitality, live music, and cozy accommodations along the way. Safe travels on your own “colours and culinary” tour!
Here is a vlog recapping our travels as well:
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* This post was done in collaboration with Tourism Nova Scotia but all opinions expressed are our own. *
